From the Rev. Langstroth: This is the great swarming month in all our Northern and Middle States. As bees keep up a high temperature in their hives, they are by no means so dependent upon the weather, for forwardness, as plants, and most other insects necessarily are. I have had as early swarms in Northern Massachusetts, as in the vicinity of Philadelphia. If bees do not swarm very soon after the fruit trees are in blossom, it is desirable to have them defer it, until later supplies furnish them with abundant forage. They seldom swarm if honey is not so abundant that they can gather more than they need for immediate consumption. Artificial colonies, therefore, should not be made, except at such seasons, unless the Apiarian expects to feed them.

In the Chapter on Artificial Swarming, I forgot to say that the bees may be driven up into the top box of my hive, by removing the honey-board, blowing smoke into the entrance, and drumming upon the outside of the hive. Inexperienced Apiarians may prefer this to opening the hive and lifting out the combs. I can easily stupefy bees by fumigating them with puff-ball, or by pouring into their hive a little chloroform or ether, but it is far more troublesome to manage them in this way, than with the smoke of punk.

If the bee-keeper relies upon natural swarming, his Apiary, if not in full sight and sound, should be carefully watched. If this cannot be done, he should, after a short absence, carefully examine the neighboring bushes and trees, on some of which he will often find a swarm clustered, preparatory to their departure for a new home. As it may often be important to know from which hive the swarm has issued, after it has been hived and removed to its new stand, let a cup full of bees be taken from it and thrown into the air, near the Apiary; they will soon return to the parent stock, and may easily be recognized, by their standing at the entrance and fanning, like ventilating bees. Where the hives have glass windows, the diminished number of bees will usually show which colony has swarmed.

As fast as they are filled*, and the cells capped over, the surplus honey-receptacles should be removed, and empty ones returned in their place. Careless bee-keepers often lose much, by neglecting to do this in season, thereby condemning their colonies to a very unwilling idleness. The Apiarian will bear in mind that all small swarms, which come off late in this month, should be either aided, doubled, or returned to the mother stock. With my hives the issue of such swarms may be prevented, by removing in season the supernumerary queen cells. During all the swarming season, and indeed at all other times when young queens are being bred, the bee-keeper must ascertain seasonably, that the hives which contain them, succeed in securing a fertile mother.

I have repeatedly observed that after-swarms build the most regular worker comb, and that if they lay up a sufficient supply of honey, they usually make the best stock hives. If, by further experiments, I ascertain that this is owing to their possessing a young queen, I shall judge it best, in making artificial swarms, to leave the old queen with the parent stock, and to supply the forced swarm with a young one, as soon as they manifest a consciousness of their loss.

* Mr. Quinby informs me, that he succeeds in making bees fill a double tier of small boxes, by placing one set on the hive first; when they have partially filled these, he puts the second set under the first.

Pest Management Controls

Addresses ********************************************************************************************************** Cultural Options

Strap the hives to a secure stand. This helps to ensure the larger critters cannot push the hives over (e.g., by a deer rubbing against the side), and stops racoons from opening the top.

High winds, large critters, & medium sized critters

Splitting colonies using a walk-away method allows the bees to raise their own queen. This brood break will prevent any Varroa from entering larva cells, and hopefully they will die off for a while.

Varroa

Add or replace beetle traps as necessary.

Small hive beetles

Add a carpet tack strip to the entrance board to defer critters

Skunks ********************************************************************************************************** Genetic Options

You can replace your queen with one which will sire Varroa-resistant stock. That is discussed more in Genetic Stock, along with options.

Varroa ********************************************************************************************************** Chemical Options

Action is needed if the Varroa mite level is ≥ 2% (2 mites / 100 bees).

• If that level is exceeded, treat the whole apiary using the instructions provided by the Honey Bee Health Coalition's Varroa Management Decision Tool.
• Randy Oliver is a proponent for treating colonies where the Varroa infestation rate is ≥ 1%.

There should be no honey supers on the hive just yet, but they may be added in late April or early May. Take that into account when planning what to use.

Varroa

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May

July

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Disclaimer: eMail comments to me at BeekeepingBoK @ Gmail.com. The process of beekeeping can cause injury or be a health hazard unless proper precautions are taken, including the wearing of appropriate protective equipment.